Monday, May 1, 2006

Pray then in this way:
Our Father in heaven,
hallowed be your name.
Your kingdom come.
Your will be done,
on earth as it is in heaven.
Give us this day our daily bread.
And forgive us our debts,
as we also have forgiven our debtors.
And do not bring us to the time of trial,
but rescue us from the evil one.

(Matthew 6:9-13)

Today began the final phase of the event. The next three days will be spent at the International Center of Bethlehem (ICB), hearing presentations from a wide variety of experts—Palestinian and Israeli—about the history, context, people, and economics of the region as they have been, and continue to be, affected by the current situations. There were three panelists during the morning session. The title of the session was "Analysis of the Context."

The first speaker was Dr. Mahdi Abd Al-Hadi. Dr. Abd Al-Hadi is the founder of the Palestinian Academic Society for the Study of International Affairs (PASSIA), as well as the chairperson of its board of trustees. PASSIA, located in Jerusalem, provides a variety of programs, services, and resources. The mission of the organization is to provide a forum for the free expression and analysis of a plurality of local and foreign perspectives as they relate to Palestine. In addition to running PASSIA, Dr. Abdul Hadi has lectured extensively around the globe and published numerous articles and essays. He received a law degree from Damascus University in Syria and has a Ph.D. from the School of Peace Studies at Bradford University in the United Kingdom. He was a fellow at Harvard School of International Affairs for one year.

Using newsprint on which to draw maps, list statistics and diagram settlements, Dr. Abdul Hadi spoke to the group about the geography, demography and culture of Palestine and Jerusalem and how those elements affect the situation in Israel and Palestine.

One example of the geographical effect relates to the fact that only 10% of the land in the West Bank is left for Palestinian habitation. He spoke about the demographics and how there are 3,400,000 Palestinians living in the occupied territories. Those with money and education are leaving the region, making Palestine a mere symbol to the refugees, no more a land where they can create a home and a living. Of particular concern to Dr. Abdul Hadi, a Muslim, is the number of Christians who are leaving. He also noted that 57% of the Palestinian society is between the ages of 14 and 25 years old. These young people have known nothing beyond oppression and poverty. This combination fosters anger in the young population, which can result in self-sacrificing violence as retaliation to the violent treatment they have received.

Ms. Roni Ben Efrat was the second speaker of the day. She is the editor of Challenge magazine, which focuses on the Israel/Palestine conflict. From 1992-2005, Ms. Efrat, an Israeli, was a founder and active participant of a network of NGOs that include Hanitzotz Publishing House, The Workers Advice Center, and Sindyana of Galilee. She shared writings from the manuscript of an article she will be publishing in the near future.

Her talk centered around reflections on elections in the region in the past 5 months:

Iraq in December, Palestine in January, and Israel in March. With respect to Iraq she spoke about how one cannot assume that democracy will work readily when applied to a culture that for centuries has operated as tribal societies. With respect to Palestine she feels the election results were a type of "deal." In her opinion, Hamas is capable of providing basic services to the municipalities, but may not be equipped to negotiate in the larger political arena, neither regionally nor globally. The Israeli election outcomes, she feels, will allow Israel to continue to hide its sins of illegal occupation, yet maintain their economic leverage in the region.

The final speaker of the morning was the Rev. Dr. Mitri Raheb. Born and raised in Bethlehem, Raheb is the general director of the International Center of Bethlehem (ICB) and The Dar al Kalima Health and Wellness Center as well as the founder of Dar al-Kalima School and Dar al-Kalima College in Bethlehem. Moreover, he is the pastor of the Evangelical Lutheran Christmas church in Bethlehem since 1988. The Rev. Dr. Raheb received his undergraduate degree in protestant theology from the Hermannsburg Mission Seminary in Germany in 1984. He later attended the Philipps University Marburg, also in Germany, where he earned masters and doctoral degrees in theology. In addition to his pastoral role, Raheb became one of few Palestinian theologians known for developing a contextual Christian theology in the Arab-Palestinian context as well as in the interfaith dialogue in addition to his many local social and academic activities.

This accomplished gentleman, and our host at the ICB, took the three points mentioned earlier by Dr. Al-Hadi (geography, demography and culture) and addressed them in a theological context. He spoke about the geography of Palestine and how it and its people have always been on the periphery. Raheb stated that superpowers define the geography, and that Palestine has always been a battlefield, where others take their wars so as not to destroy their own lands. The demographics become difficult in Palestine as you take a diverse people (the children of all the invaders) and try to create a controlled, homogenous people. What happens when you do? You get "swiss cheese, where Israelis get the cheese and Palestinians are pushed aside, into the holes." He continued by saying that culture is not defined by power or might-but by spirit. Raheb stated that he feels there is too much "religion and not enough spirituality." A new vision is needed that allows Palestinians and Israelis to find each other and share this geography.

The morning session ending with a brief rebuttal period for the speakers, and a question and answer time for conference participants.

A group lunch was served, with a menu we are becoming used to — soup, a main course of meat, bread and rice, then fruit for dessert.

When we re-convened in the afternoon, the theme was "The People Behind the Wall."

The first speaker was Dr. Jad Isaac. Dr. Isaac is the director general of the Applied Research Institute-Jerusalem (ARIJ), a leading Palestinian institute that conducts research on agriculture, environment, land use and water. He got his B.Sc. degree from Cairo University and his M.Sc. degree from Rutgers University. He obtained a Ph.D. from the University of East Anglia in the United Kingdom. He is the former dean of science at Bethlehem University and has published several articles and books in his field of interest including The Environmental Profile for the West Bank and The Atlas of Palestine.

Using a PowerPoint presentation that included maps, satellite pictures, graphs, and charts, Isaac gave a chronological account of Israel/Palestine beginning in 1948 up to late 2005. He feels the situation could be coined "peace in pieces." Dr. Isaac showed a multitude of images that gave a visual account of settlements, the "separation barrier," and Israeli military checkpoints as all they have evolved during the last four-plus decades. He explained how 10,000 new settlement units have been added in just the past two years and referenced it as the "de-Palestiniazation of Jerusalem."

The final speaker of the day was Ms. Allegra Pacheoco, chief of the Information and Advocacy Unit for the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA) in the Occupied Palestinian territory. She is a graduate of Columbia Law School in New York and a member of both the New York and Israeli bars. Prior to her work at OCHA, Ms. Pacheco worked as a private human rights attorney in the occupied territories for eight years where she litigated in front of the Israeli Supreme and military court, hundreds of cases on behalf of Palestinians dealing with torture, prisoners rights, house demolitions and land confiscations. Ms. Pacheco also worked for a period as legal advisor for UNRWA West Bank. She has written extensively on international humanitarian and human rights law issues regarding the occupied territories and has published op-ed pieces in the New York Times, Boston Globe, and other media.

Ms. Pacheco's presentation included information about the legal maneuverings in the Israeli courts over the past two years, and how that has influenced the Palestinian economy and human justice issues. She talked about how outstanding legal issues, such as the applicability of the IV Geneva Convention, continue to allow the creation of Israeli settlements. Pacheco spoke passionately about the "buried" legal issues that are the right of any people. One such example is "being denied access to holy places" such as Jerusalem. She also cautioned the crowd about the terminology they might hear on U.S. news reports that refer to the settlements as "neighborhoods" and how the UN Security Council, in a 14-1 vote determined that, in fact, they are settlements. When asked about reparations to Palestinians Pacheco explained that it involves more than money: it involves return of the land and the olive trees and removal of the wall.

After an intense day of facts, figures, maps and more the conference attendees were excused for a short break and then more "processing" in presbytery teams. Dinner followed.

In the evening, the participants watched "Our Diaries through the Wall," a play presented by ten young women from the Terra Santa School/Sisters of St. Joseph. The play explores their experiences and feelings growing up in Palestine. Based on diaries written by young women, ages 15-17, over a four-year period, the play focuses on the pain, joy, wonder, fear, and love of daily life. English teacher Susan Atallah asked her students to write and share their diaries as a way to channel the emotions of the young women who had lived through a variety of traumas. Mohammed Awwad serves as the director of the play, first produced in Edinburgh, Scotland. Atallah notes that the young women are "builders of the future" who "live in the hope of peace."

Saturday, April 29, 2006 

"Create in me a clean heart, O God."

(Psalm 51:10)

"I pray that ... Christ may dwell in your hearts through faith, as you are being rooted and grounded in love."

(Ephesians 3:16-17) 

There's a presence that creates the mood for each day of our travel.  Today that presence was created by Bethlehem, the birthplace of our Lord, Jesus Christ. 

Barbara Battin, one of our leaders, reminds us each morning that we are "a group of 100."  That means many things.  One thing it means is that we often divide into smaller groups to visit different places.  That was the case today.  So the itinerary described below is the schedule followed by group "B."  All participants went to the same places, but at different times.  In doing so our experiences were similar, yet different:  another example of our diversity and community. 

First stop-Dar al-Kalima School, a private school located in Bethlehem, and one of the primary outreach programs of the International Center of Bethlehem, where the Peacemaking Conference will continue for the next several days.  Additional funding for the school comes from the Lutheran Churches of Sandanavia, Germany, the United States, and other Lutheran communities around the world.  The name of the school is Arabic meaning "the house of the Word."   

Our presenter was Ms. Naela Kharoub, Dar Al-Kalima's principal.  She is a Christian Palestinian, highly accredited in education.   Kharoub explained that the school's philosophy of teaching departs from "talk and chalk" methodology and relies on interactive learning.  Additionally, it is based on teaching peace and accepting differences.  The approach, as Ms. Kharoub explained, is also based on "Christian teachings, communication, commitment to Palestine, critical thinking, and creativity."  

The school is located on a hilltop and made of white stone, steel, and glass, materials that create a light, bright, open atmosphere.   As you enter, you pass a playground, ball court, and a large open area where young children were running and playing. You might wonder why the children were in school on a Saturday.  The principal explained that they go to school Monday-Thursday.  They are off on Friday, the Islamic Sabbath, return to school on Saturday, and then are off again on Sunday, the Christian Sabbath.  The student body is about fifty percent Muslim and fifty percent Christian.  

Dar al-Kalima is similar in structure to schools in America, offering classes for pre-kindergarten through twelfth grade.  The current enrollment is 260 students with student to teacher ratio of 25:1.   

When asked what the hardest issue facing the school's students is Ms. Kharoub replied, "violence and curfews."  She went on to say that the violence comes from the children witnessing home demolitions and having to walk to and from school under the surveillance of Israeli soldiers.  The frequent curfews "affect the students attendance" when they are not allowed to leave home to attend school.  When they are permitted to attend to school during shorter curfews, their concentration is often easily distracted a result of having been cooped up in their homes for extended periods of time. 

While the group listened to the principal speak in the small auditorium, children's voices could be heard laughing outside the door.   As the Peacemaking group returned to our bus, these same young children were happy to speak, laugh and walk with us. 

We left this place for a more confining part of Bethlehem —the Deheishe Refugee Camp.  As we departed the bus, we were guided through a series of narrow, twisting alley-like walkways.  We snaked our way up, around, and through the camp, passing housing structures built randomly out of all types of materials-stone, brick, metal, and wood.  One small square box-type house is built on top of another.    Chain link fences and security wire were the finishing touches. 

The group arrived at the refugee home of our host, Mr. Hussain Shaheen, a former UNRWA Camp Director.  As we approached his front door one participant asked, "Are we taking fifty people into this man's home?"  We did.  And he greeted each of us individually.  After he welcomed the last of us in, there were fifty PC(USA) Peacemakers sitting in this gentleman's small living room and kitchen, eager to listen (and remember —he had hosted another fifty later in the day.)  During our time together, his wife went from kitchen to living room and back again, making and serving us small cups of coffee. 

Shaheen spoke with pride about his education, his family, and his many highly accomplished friends and associates.  But he also spoke about the fact that this refugee camp houses 12,000 people from 46 different villages destroyed by the Israeli army since 1948, and approximately 1/3 have incomes below the poverty line, not able to afford basic human needs.  He spoke about how it can take days and weeks to seek a work permit, only later to be denied.  He spoke about the camp's history beginning in 1948 when it was tents and shacks to 1967 when it was occupied by Israel to 1993 when it was declared a military zone to the present.  This history was displayed through pictures and hand-embroidered art hanging on the beige walls of his home.   

The art also spoke volumes about pride and strength of the Palestinian people who endure and persevere.  Among the handcrafted pieces was a key, "a symbol," he said of the Palestinians' intentions "to re-open their homes" in the future.   

Shaheen spoke slowly, but with dignity.  He "rejects violence, prays for peace ... and sees a dim light at the end of the tunnel."  It's a light he thinks that could be the future.  He believes the "psychological and concrete walls must be removed" in order to make peace. 

As we left, in a somewhat somber mood, he shook our hands, thanking us, one by one.  

Our next stop was Shepherd's Field.  But that was only after the bus drove us to the area that used to be the main entrance between Bethlehem and Jerusalem to see the "wall."  The entrance was completely closed and the immediate area resembled a ghost town.  No cars driving, people walking or shops open.   

A life of contrast in Palestine once again greeted us at Shepherd's Field.  We walked through a garden, sanctuary, and chapel.  The garden had pink California ice flowers and red geraniums, palm and evergreen trees.  It is believed that this field is where the angels appeared to the shepherds, inviting them to the manger of the baby Jesus.    

The day was warm, and the group was slowing, but there was one last stop-the Church of the Nativity.  Located on Manger Square in "downtown" Bethlehem, the church is a shrine to the birthplace of Jesus, with a gilded altar, intricate mosaic art, and dozens of incense holders hanging from the ceilings. The altar was as bright as a Christmas tree, lit by enormous chandeliers of gold, silver, and red. 

After a full day, the participants' work was not done.  The group enjoyed some free time, a meal in the Upper Room-the restaurant at the International Center, then the first of many "presbytery team" sessions.  During tonight's session they spent time reflecting on the past few days and beginning to process what they have seen and heard.

Friday, April 28, 2006 

"For I am about to create new heavens and a new earth; the former things shall not be remembered or come to mind. But be glad and rejoice forever in what I am creating; for I am about to create Jerusalem as a joy, and its people as a delight. I will rejoice in Jerusalem, and delight in my people; no more shall the sound of weeping be heard in it, or the cry of distress. No more shall there be in it an infant that lives but a few days, or an old person who does not live out a lifetime; for one who dies at a hundred years will be considered a youth, and one who falls short of a hundred will be considered accursed. They shall build houses and inhabit them; they shall plant vineyards and eat their fruit. They shall not build and another inhabit; they shall not plant and another eat; for like the days of a tree shall the days of my people be, and my chosen shall long enjoy the work of their hands. They shall not labor in vain, or bear children for calamity; for they shall be offspring blessed by the Lord- and their descendants as well. Before they call I will answer, while they are yet speaking I will hear. The wolf and the lamb shall feed together, the lion shall eat straw like the ox; but the serpent-its food shall be dust! They shall not hurt or destroy on all my holy mountain, says the Lord."

(Isaiah 65:17-25)

Before leaving the Strand the group participated in some "get to know each other" exercises.  We were invited to move about the room asking each other a series of questions such as, "where are you from?" "what brought you here?" and "what do you hope for from this visit?"  As one of the leaders, Barbara Battin, explained, the exercises help us honor our diversity and community — which is much like the hope for the Palestinians and Israelis. 

The first presenter of the day was Angela Godfrey-Goldstein, Action Advocacy Officer from The Israeli Committee Against House Demolitions (ICAHD).  ICAHD is an Israeli direct-action organization established to resist, in a non-violent manner, Israel's demolition of Palestinian houses in the Occupied Territories.  Over 12,000 Palestinian homes have been destroyed since 1967.  Thousands more are slated for demolition. We saw some of that destruction later in the morning as we toured the Palestinian neighborhoods of Jerusalem.   Our group not only saw houses that had been destroyed, but also drove by Jewish settlement after settlement.  Some are single houses situated on strategic streets in East Jerusalem; some large apartment-like complexes filling up several blocks.  Others are inside the old city, displacing Palestinian families whose houses these had been for hundreds of years. Many are uninhabited, standing empty as if "on hold" for further use.   Ma'aleh Adumim, the largest settlement we visited, is a small city of over 30,000 Israelis — a sprawling settlement of lush green lawns, brilliant flowers, sidewalks, schools and parks - a sharp contrast to the Palestinian neighborhoods we had just come from.  One of our tour directors from ICAHD, explained that the settlements control the resources, borders (and thus the flow of products), and Jerusalem. 

The afternoon consisted of a walking tour in the Old City of Jerusalem, following the Via Dolorosa, or "Fourteen Stations of the Cross" and praying at the Western Wall.  Along the route of slippery and uneven stone streets (hardly wider then our typical neighborhood sidewalks) lined with bustling marketplace, are chapels, convents, and monasteries, each marking a sacred memory of Jesus' walk from Pilate's Judgment Hall to Calvary Hill — the site of the crucifixion.  We thought it appropriate to let some of the participants share their feelings and thoughts on this experience: 

"When The Gospel of John says, 'that the Word become flesh,' it is the only way I can explain how I felt being in Old Jerusalem today.  The history of the Biblical text came alive, and His story lives," said the Rev. Alexander Porter from Charlotte Presbytery. 

"Walking the Via Dolorosa ... was a very powerful and personal experience for me, more powerful than I expected ... I feel I got some sense of why such a vast and diverse group of people in this world are spiritually connected to Jerusalem in such profound ways," said
Matthew Brunger from the Presbytery of East Tennessee. 

"At the tomb I was surprised by the variety of emotions I felt.  The Western Wall, in the shadow of the Dome of the Rock, made me feel connected to the Jews and Muslims who were there.  It was an odd feeling of coming together without actually interacting.  It was awesome to think I could be walking where our Lord had walked.  Wow!"  said Jacqueline Bryant Caleb from Donegal Presbytery 

"I walked the Stations of the Cross, heard a call to prayer from a local mosque, and prayed at the Western Wall.  How God must yearn for peace in such a Holy Land!"  said the Rev. David Brumbaugh from New Castle Presbytery. 

"As we began our walk along the Via Dolorosa, I was not sure what to expect.  I knew the space I was walking was not the same as it was 2000 years ago, and yet somewhere under all that rock were the very places Jesus had walked.  The further we went, the more intense the experience was.  Entering this holy place I could only pray for the Holy Spirit to guide me in taking it all in,"  said Meg Doerzbacher from the Presbytery of Cincinnati.   

Very late in the afternoon the group's luggage was unloaded at the Grand Hotel in Bethlehem.  Charles Gross and Nicole Richardson gratefully claimed their luggage, finally delivered by Air France.  A short time later, participants walked to the International Center of Bethlehem to have prayer and dinner and prepare themselves for the next day. 

The scripture that appears at the beginning of the article is the scripture that was used during morning prayers.

Thursday, April 27, 2006

"Blessed are the people who know the festal shout,
Who walk, O God, in the light of your countenance."

(Psalm 89: 15)

"He came out and went, as was his custom, to the Mount of Olives; and the disciples followed him. When he reached the place, he said to them, "Pray that you may not come into the time of trial."

(Luke 22:39-40)

Worship followed. Participants prayed, sang, and participated in establishing a Community Covenant.

After the buses were loaded, the group headed through East Jerusalem to the Mount of Olives. Between the hotel and the Mount we passed many places of religious significance, including the Hebrew University, the Lutheran Church of Ascension, The Dome of the Rock mosque, a Russian Orthodox church, and the Mormon University. An interfaith part of the world, to say the least.

From the Mount of Olives, the group headed back down the narrow, winding roads to the Garden of Gethsemane and experienced a garden lush with all colors of roses, lined by stone walks and walls, and an iron fence (Israel is one of the world's largest exporters of roses) and olive trees so old their age is lost in antiquity.

Next to the garden was the Church of All Nations. Participants entered into this holy place, only dim lights and candles lighting their way, as Franciscan Brothers chanted their morning prayers.

The group then headed to West Jerusalem; the roads continued to be narrow and the traffic was thick — interestingly enough, many of the vehicles were tourist buses and taxis.

We visited the Hebrew Union College, the headquarters of Reformed Judaism. The group first listened to Rabbi Naamah Kelman, the first female Rabbi ordained in the state of Israel and director of educational initiatives at the college. Rabbi Kelman spoke about the college and the services it provides. As she spoke she mentioned many times that the philosophy is one of teaching pluralism, dialogue, tolerance and peace. She pointed out similarities between the college and PC(USA) stating, "we all search for how to do church better and how to involve the youth." Rabbi Kelman also spoke about her efforts to help her children maintain their humanity while serving in the military forces. She shared their ongoing conversations about defending their country while at the same time seeing the image of God in all people.

Second to speak at the Hebrew Union College was Rabbi Edward Retting, Associate Director of the Israel/Middle East Office of the American Jewish Committee. As he spoke about the Israel/Palestine situation, he stated, "the conflict is so tragic because there is justice on both sides." He added that the PC(USA) has the potential of being able to help, having the gift of being from somewhere else, and being able to look elsewhere for the true causes to the conflict.

From Hebrew Union College, the group traveled to Yad Vashem (literally meaning "a memorial and name" — Isaiah 56:5), the Jewish people's memorial to the Holocaust. Following lunch, participants toured the museum. After the visit to Yad Vashem, the group returned to the Strand Hotel to hear further speakers.

First to speak was Rabbi Michael Melchior, member of Knesset. Rabbi Melchior likened the situation between Israelis and Palestinians to the situation of the lovers described in the Song of Solomon: to move the peace process forward, both parties must be ready at the same time. He spoke of the need to nurture and support the moderates on both sides in order to achieve solutions. Rabbi Melchior shared about his work with Muslim and Christian leaders to find a path out of the current morass to a time when there are two viable, contiguous states.

Dr. Eran Lerman, director of the American Jewish Committee Israel/Middle East Office and a retired intelligence officer, spoke about security issues. He provided an historical analysis of the evolution of the current situation.

Dinner followed and participants were dismissed for the evening: some went to bed, some stayed and talked. All are well, although Charles Gross and Nicole Richardson are still working with Air France to find their luggage.

On April 28, we rise early for a tour with the Israeli Committee against Home Demolitions. After touring the Old City of Jerusalem we will move to Bethlehem.

Why haven't you received a call yet?

Many participants purchased international phone cards in order to call home occasionally. Unfortunately the phones in the hotel we are currently staying cannot accommodate these cards and our schedule has been so full that searching out other phones has not been possible. If you haven't received a call you were expecting — don't worry! Hopefully we will find time and accommodations to make these calls soon. Thank you.

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Jerusalem • 10:30 p.m.

"Christ be with you. We are here." With these words, Sara Lisherness, associate director of the Presbyterian Peacemaking Program greeted the Presbyterians gathered for dinner at the Strand Hotel in Jerusalem. "And there are one hundred of us," observed Barbara Battin, conference coordinator. After three years of planning and multiple hours of travel, the travel/study conference in Israel/Palestine has begun.

Participants, from thirty-three presbyteries, range in age from teen-agers to octogenarians. Over the next few days they will pray and worship together, visit a number of sites, and listen to a variety of speakers. They will join in presbytery teams to process what they see, hear, and experience and to plan for ministry together.

Buses leave at 8:30 AM on Thursday April 27 for the Mount of Olives with breakfast scheduled at 7:00 AM.

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